Typically caused by the inevitable rust and corrosion that occurs inside a screw hole, a stuck screw can be an incredibly frustrating thing to work with. Not only can it slow a project down, but it can throw a wet wool blanket over anybody's good mood. This corrosion effectively locks a screw into place and removing the thing can potentially destroy the screw itself or, worse yet, the material it's embedded in. Fortunately, though, there are few sure-fire methods that will help you remove a stuck screw with relative ease and minimal annoyance. Before beginning to beat-up your screw, though, please be sure you have the correct size and type of screwdriver; the wrong one can strip the screw-head making it incredibly more difficult to remove and virtually impossible without destroying it altogether. 1. Chemical Warfare: The first and least invasive method of stuck-screw extraction is the use a little chemical manipulation. While that may sound complicated, some pretty everyday "solutions" should dissolve the corrosion that's binding your screw. For instance, lemon juice, hydrogen peroxide and even a refreshing cola beverage can breakup corrosion and release a stuck screw. You may even go all out and reach for some rust remover at the grocery, home or hardware store (though this is both more aggressive and more expensive). Although this technique is typically the most gentle way to release a stuck screw, you must be careful not to stain or damage your material. Damage may occur where an anti-corrosive is too potent or is left soaking for too long. In either case, your anti-corrosive solution of choice should be left to soak for a few minutes. To the best of your ability apply the solution inside the screw-hole; tapping the screw-head while applying will help the anti-corrosive penetrate deeper into the screw-hole (and will therefore loosen or release more of the screw). The more surface area you can contact with the solution, the easier the screw will come free. After adequate soaking, attempt to remove the screw. If the screw will not loosen, attempt to tighten it (you can utilize the tightening technique throughout most of the below methods). If the screw will move in either direction (even the tighter direction) the movement should break the corrosion and, effectively, set it free. If the screw still won't budge, it's time for our next method. 2. Brute Force: This method involves muscle - good-old-fashioned, gettin-it-done muscle (and a tool or two to enhance your human strength). First, if you can get a grip on the screw-head, try to grab it with pliers or vice grips. If you can get hold of it, you may be able to turn it with this added leverage. If you can't get hold of it, insert the screwdriver into the screw-head, lock the pliers or grips onto the shaft of the screwdriver and, while pushing down it, try to turn it again. The downward pressure form the screwdriver and the turning leverage from the grips may break the screw loose. If this doesn't work, try hitting the top of the screwdriver (not so aggressively that you destroy the tip of it, but enough to let that screw know you're there). Ideally, the impact will bust-up some corrosion and release the screw. If you can manage it, also try hitting the screwdriver while turning it - this combination of impact and rotation will often force a screw loose. - Be careful, though, not to strip the screw-head. 3. Temperature Tampering: Before using extreme temperatures on your stuck screw, be sure the material the screw is stuck in can handle such fluctuations. I you heat it up, don't use lubricating oils as they are flammable and may catch fire. Extreme temperatures may also burn you, so please, be cautious and wear appropriate safety gear. The first thing to try is heat. Using a butane or propane torch, a soldering iron, a heat gun or even a glue gun (without glue, of course) you can get that screw nice and hot. The heat will expand the screw, break the corrosion and should allow you to joggle it loose. If your material can not or should not be exposed to high-heat, chilling the screw, although, less effective, may also get the thing loose. Allow ice to set on the screw (place ice in a plastic bag to avoid too much water permeation). Dry ice is more effective than "regular" ice. When the screw has become good and freezing cold, try turning it in both directions. Heat and cold cycles can be repeated for better results. 4. Destruction: If the screw absolutely must come out and none of the previous methods have worked, you may have to destroy it. Of course, destroying the screw is a last resort and these methods are typically reserved for the end of the line. When employing the destruction method, be careful to keep the screw-hole intact. First, position a small chisel or steel punch just slightly off center in the screw-head. Repeatedly strike the top of the chisel or punch with a hammer. Strike with counter-clockwise pressure. Several impacts of this nature should separate the screw from the corrosion and loosen it for removal. You may also get funky with your power drill and attempt to drill out the stuck screw. This will typically destroy the screw-head altogether but you may be able to get it moving before the head is useless. - Keeping your drill bit firm and dead-center on the screw-head, attempt to reverse the screw from the hole. Be careful not to lose your mark and, in doing, mar the surrounding material. If you can get some of the screw to release but you have destroyed the screw-head, grab whatever portion of the screw you can with your pliers or grips and twist it out. 5. Total Annihilation (the Screw Extractor): Of course, the screw-annihilation route is a last resort, but, where you're stuck-screw is really dang stuck or where any screw has lost its thread, head or head-slots, it may be impossible to remove without a screw extractor. A screw extractor is designed to drive into a screw's body, grab it, twist it and remove it. The thing is a pretty brilliant little device that runs only about $10 (give or take). Though it's built to fastened to a T-handle, the screw extractor's square head and reverse tapered cutting threads can work their magic just as well with an adjustable wrench or pair of vice grips. First, using a power drill and the smallest drill bit you've got, drill a pilot hole into the center of the stuck-screw. Expanding the pilot hole with slightly larger bits, the final size of your pilot hole will vary depending upon the size of the screw extractor being used. With your grips, pliers or T-handle, insert the extractor into the pilot hole. Tap the top of the extractor with a hammer to ensure it's secured into the pilot hole and, while pushing downward, turn the extractor counter-clockwise (or, to the left). Be careful as you push and twist, though, because although an extractor is typically fabricated of superior grade steel, the extractor may break inside the pilot hole if pushed to aggressively. Ultimately, though, the reverse threads on the extractor will dig into the interior of stuck-screw, release the corrosion and, most importantly, remove the screw.

If you're a skateboarder, you're going to need to buy skateboard wheels at some point or another. However, if you don't know what you're looking for, you'll have a hard time doing it. There are lots of different types of skateboarders and each one needs a different kind of wheels. Let's take a look at some of the different options you have when you go to buy skateboard wheels online, and some of the things you should pay attention to before you make sure purchase. First, think about how you skate. Are you mostly a sidewalk cruiser, or do you prefer the street? If you're into learning tricks or want to do any skatepark riding, you're going to need to buy skateboard wheels that are on the harder side. Choose large, soft wheels for a longboard, and small hard ones for a streetboard. Your local skate shop will offer you plenty of opportunities to purchase wheels, and you'll be able to get a look at some of the options. However, you can also buy skateboard wheels online to get a better selection. If you decide to buy online, you'll want to make sure you're working with a shop you can trust. Talk to people you know who also have boards, and find out who they prefer to order from. A shop that has good return and buying policies is a must, and you want to purchase from somebody that's got a good reputation, as well. No matter where you buy from, however, the wheels will be rated in the same way. Wheel hardness is measured in durometers, with higher numbers meaning harder wheels. You'll see skateboard wheels ranging from seventy five durometers to a hundred. Generally, harder wheels move faster, while softer ones give a smoother ride and better grip. Size is measured in millimeters, with the smallest wheels starting at forty millimeters. Larger wheels go up to a hundred millimeters. The smaller the wheel, the more maneuverable the board will be. Softer wheels are preferred for slalom racing, since you'll need a better grip to deal with the turns and get around the obstacles. These are pretty big for skateboard wheels, too - about sixty to seventy five millimeters in size. You'll have an easier time sustaining speed when you buy skateboard wheels like these. Longboard wheels are even bigger, and they're better for cruising. If you'd rather skate on ramps, look for a very hard wheel about fifty five to sixty five millimeters in diameter to give you the highest speed possible before the jump. Whether you buy skateboard wheels online at a shop you trust or from the skate shop in your area, you need to know what you're looking for. Looking at how you prefer to skate and what kind of board you have is the best way to determine what kind of skateboard wheels you need to buy. Can't decide? Keep more than one board, rather than switching the wheels out. Find the right wheels and you'll have a lot more fun on your board.

Exterior rat repellents refers to the repellents which are used to drive away the rats and mice from the surroundings of the house. These rodents also like to live in surroundings of the house like in gardens, courtyards, warehouses and even in garages. There are different types of products available in the market that can be used to prevent the problems created by rats and mice. But most of these products involve the use of harmful pesticides and toxic compounds which might result in fatal accidents. In these places they get sufficient amount of waste food items. In the garden these rodents get sufficient amount of cereals, fruits, vegetables and grains which is just sufficient for their appetite. The rats and mice use to destroy the plants and crops present in the gardens. The Rats and mice which get into the house are those rodents which wander outside the house and surroundings. In the farmlands also the rats and mice create a lot of destructions. These rodents get deep into the ground and destroy the roots and yields of the crops and farmlands thus resulting in vast destruction and loss to farmers. Thus in order to resolve the problems created by rats and mice outside the house it is essential to clear rats from the surroundings of the house. In order to clear rats from the surroundings of the house, there are eco-friendly rat repellents available in the market. The eco-friendly rat repellents involve the electronic and organic rodent repellents. It is always better to use these types of rodent repellents as these repellents are completely free from the toxic and harmful chemicals which can lead to fatal accidents. The eco-friendly rat repellents include the sound repellents which emit high frequency sound to clear rats from the outside surroundings of the house. These sound repellents are available in different models which can be easily installed outside. The frequency of sound produced by these rodent repellents is greater than twenty thousand hertz. This high frequency sound emitted by the rodent repellents creates distress in the ears of the rats ands mice. These electronic rodent repellents clear rats without causing any sort of pollution in the environment and surroundings. The organic repellents used to clear rats from the house are purely made from natural constituents but its use is limited for use in outdoor purposes. Apart from these models of rodent repellents there also exist solar rat repellents which clear rats without making any sort of pollution. The solar rat repellents use the solar energy to operate its electronic components. These repellents are very compact in size and are also very economical. Some of the solar rodent repellents also come with decorative lights that can be used to illuminate the gardens of the house. There are also solar rodent repellents which produce vibrations along with high frequency sound to clear rats which are present deep under the ground. The high frequency sound produced by the solar rat repellents penetrates deep into the ground and creates a matter of fear in rats. As a result the rats and mice which are present deep under the ground are simply repelled away. All these types of electronic rodent repellents are really beneficial to clear rats from the house and surroundings. Author is an SEO and provide methods to repel and kill rats. To know more about clear rats [http://www.buyscram.com] and rodent repellents [http://www.buyscram.com] visit buyscram.com

If you're looking for an economical lawn mowing solution that's safe, hassle free and environmentally friendly, then an electric lawn mower might be what you need. An alternative to traditional gasoline powered lawn mowers, these modern mowers are powered by electricity, either directly via an electric cord (corded electric lawn mowers) or by a rechargeable battery unit (cordless electric lawn mowers) housed within the mower deck. When looking to purchase an electric mower there a number of factors you should consider as outlined in this article. Consider Your Yard Size The first thing you should consider is your yard size. If you have a small or regular sized yard (say up to 5000 square feet) then a regular electric mower is probably going to be suitable for your needs. If you have acreage or a large yard, then a riding lawn mower or a cordless electric lawn mower with additional batteries might be a better option. If you opt for a corded mower, you will be restricted by the length of the electric cord and the availability of power outlets around your yard. Unless you do have a small yard, battery operated mowers are a much more flexible option as you don't have to worry about dragging along an electric cord while mowing. Removable Batteries For cordless electric lawn mower models that offer a removable battery, you should have the option of purchasing additional batteries so you can simply replace a flat battery with a fully charged one to allow you to continue mowing. A removable battery is also handy if you don't have a power supply in your shed or wherever you store your mower - you can simply take the battery unit out and charge it somewhere more convenient. Watt Hours Rating Each cordless electric lawn mower will have a voltage rating such as 24 Volt or 36 Volt, and the size of the mower's 'fuel tank' is measured in watt hours - the higher the watt hours, the longer you can mow for. To calculate the watt hours rating for a mower, simply multiply the battery voltage rating by the amp hour rating - this will tell you how much power the mower battery can deliver over time. Electric lawn mowers are not as powerful as traditional gas mowers, but they are sufficient to get the job done. Deck Size The deck size or cutting swatch of the mower indicates the width of lawn that you will cut on each pass you make when mowing. So the larger the deck size, the less passes you will need to make to mow all of your lawn! A larger deck size will generally mean a bigger mower, so if you are very limited on storage space or unable to push or handle a large mower this is something you may need to consider. Compact Storage Features If storage space is at a premium, look for a mower that has a collapsible handle that will fold down. This will allow you to store the mower upright or in small, compact spaces. Mowers without this feature can take up a surprising amount of space. Another bonus of electric mowers is that you will not need to store fuel for the engine, which saves both storage space and money. Warranty Options Investigate the warranty options available - most electric mowers come with a two year limited manufacturers' warranty, and some will also offer a lifetime warranty on the mower deck. It is likely that any problems you might have with the mower will occur within the six months to a year so having a warranty that covers you beyond this initial period of use is a bonus. Finally, price is often the determining factor when making any purchase. If you do have a set budget, do your homework and always try to buy the best quality product you can afford, as this is likely to save you money on maintenance and repairs in the long term.